Stand by me

Easy-Run engine test run stand

By Jonathan Light

Photos Courtesy of Easy-Run

Next to a premium-quality custom paint job, probably the most expensive single item on a project car is the engine. Especially a high-performance or competition mill. All the more reason, then, to make sure it’s running right before lowering it in between the fenders.

After all, wouldn’t you hate spending hours installing an engine, and because of an undetected problem, had to immediately remove it to make repairs? (And also risk damaging that equally expensive paint job?)

Here we see most of the stand components laid out. Included with the Custom Series Deluxe kit is the frame assembly, engine mount system, radiator, 16-inch HD cooling fan with full fan shroud, coolant recovery tank, radiator support system, 3-gallon fuel tank, 6-inch caster set, dash panel, battery tray with all cables, Ford frame-mounted starter solenoid, mount brackets, and hardware.

Assembling the frame is a simple matter, with clear instructions. If you have the skills to build a project car, this item is way easer.

We previously installed the gauges, switches, relays, fuse panel and associated wiring into the panel, and then attached it to the stand. The Custom Series Deluxe comes with these components (except for the dash wiring). When wiring, we used male/female connectors to make it easy to disassemble the stand when ready for storage.

An engine hoist was used to lower the Ford 428 onto the run stand. First, a universal bell housing mount system was fastened directly to the rear bell housing bolt pattern. Then the rear of the engine was set onto the rear mount cradle and a quick-release pin was installed.

It’s certainly no fun to go through this sort of hassle, so why not do a “preflight check” with an engine test stand? To illustrate, before installing a freshly rebuilt — and fairly pricey — 1966 Ford 428 V8 Police Interceptor, we decided it would be a good idea to evaluate it for proper operation.

An engine test run stand allows running engines outside of the vehicle. Also, since the engine is exposed, this setup makes it easier to check for leaks, vibration, strange noises, and any other issues. Plus, it facilitates making repairs. Testing on a run stand also averts possible damage to the vehicle, and aggravation of removing and reinstalling the engine, saving time, hassle and money.

The engine was then fastened to the Ford big-block engine mounts, which were already attached to the engine mounting pedestals. These pedestals adjust independently fore, aft, and vertically, and once set for proper engine height, were secured to the run stand frame. Of note, an automatic transmission kit is available to mount automatic and most standard transmissions.

The negative battery cable ground and frame-to-engine ground were attached to a bolt that secures one of the casters. It’s important to ground the engine to avoid damage to the other electrical circuits. We also used this location to ground the dash panel, electric fan and auxiliary circuit.

A starter solenoid was also installed, and electrical connections made. Easy-Run recommends using the Ford-type starter solenoid, as it provides a safe starter connection that is not hot until you press the starter button. We also bolted on the battery holding tray.

Having previous experience with the simplicity of Easy-Run’s engine test stands, we decided to try one out on our 428 ci engine. The stands are high-quality, well-engineered, durable, and have solid safety features. They’re fully adjustable and designed for universal applications by using a variety of mounts. Since the engine is a big-block V8, we ordered the optional big-block mounts.

Easy-Run’s Custom Series Deluxe engine stand arrives in six boxes via UPS Ground, with no truck freight involved. This not only provides for reduced shipping charges, it makes it convenient to receive.

Next, we hooked up the oil pressure line, fuel line, radiator hoses, and water temperature line using the fittings and tubes that were included in their respective kits. Also installed were the starter cable, battery cables and engine ground cable. We made sure to route everything away from potential hazards.

We made sure all fluids were filled, double-checked the ignition timing on the No. 1 cylinder, bled and pressure-tested the cooling system, and pressurized the entire oil system, all to make sure our engine was ready for startup.

Now that everything was hooked up, we used a power test light to be sure we had ignition, tachometer lead, and power to the starter solenoid. We also tested the electric fan and auxiliary circuits.

We took a deep breath and started the engine. Success! As the engine runs, the coolant, oil and fuel are under pressure, which makes it easier to find any leaks, from top to bottom and front to back. We also checked for proper starter engagement, and that the intake was seated properly. With the engine exposed it makes it easy to listen for unusual noises, such as from the valve train, water pump, or those created by vacuum leaks. We found our engine to be in fine running order. As a final procedure, we retorqued all the bolts before installing the engine in our project car.

In addition, once assembled, it can be taken apart quickly and stored until needed. So it won’t take up much room in the shop when not in use. We ordered a Custom Series Deluxe run stand, which includes provisions for electrical, fuel and cooling systems, to get the most from our test run.

After assembling the stand, hooking up our engine and firing it up, all the vital signs looked good. But even better was the peace of mind in knowing this engine is good to go before putting it into our project car.